Kai Lenny Dropping Into A Wave At Peahi

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BOB BANGERTER “I remember dropping into this wave at Peahi (Jaws) and feeling the entire 9’8” rail in the water making this humming sound from hitting these one-inch tall chops. I had the most amazing view from the take off. I remember not being sure if I even wanted to go, but all of a sudden it was go or don’t. And I went. As I took off, it literally felt like I jumped off a cliff. The fins didn’t connect until I was about mid-way down the face of the wave. I had always wanted to paddle in out there—for some reason it just seemed really appealing—and after I rode that wave, I knew that was the feeling I had been looking for.” –Kai

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